Finished: True Bias Southport Dress in Lisette Pin-Dot Chambray

Excuse the wrinkles and straps - in an effort to blog again, and make "photo sessions" as painless as possible, we've started taking photos during our evening walks.  Also, CoCo will be a frequent guest, as Brandon can't manage her and the camera ;)

Why, yes, yes that is a storm drain haha - let's just call these photos very authentic!

I never posted the draft I wrote after Me-Made-May regarding the topic but, after the fun of that month, it was more obvious than ever that my wardrobe has a split personality - part laid back, part tailored, and part feminine vintage.  For a while, I was disappointed with the fact and also had a moment of concern that you, my lovely sewing friends, would be so too.  But, I got over it quickly and I know that many of you probably feel the same way.

So, in contrast to my last, uber-girly dress, I give you the first of many (three so far!) Southports!  By now, I know you've all heard of this pattern.  It sort of took Instagram, and presumably the blog world (some day I'll catch up), by storm.  It seems such a quiet pattern - a simple sleeveless dress, maxi- or knee-length, with a drawstring waist.  But, what it really is is perfect!  Sure, girly dresses are great for dressing up, or rather just dressing, when there's time (I genuinely do wear my "dressier" items - just ask my doctors or the regular employees at Whole Foods haha).  On the other hand, the Southport is absolutely perfect for throwing on as you rush out the door.  Want to sleep in a little in the morning?  This dress is the answer!  You throw it on and look both somewhat polished, or at least "put-together" (don't forget how many people will be wearing sweatpants...) and on trend.  A great combination for such little effort!  Isn't that exactly what so many of us are looking for?  Simple and effortless? Each of these dresses gets worn at least once a week (sometimes more!).  Side note:  Even Brandon loves these dresses and says I should make more because he loves how quickly I get ready with them haha!

Now, I could pitch the pattern all day (note: I did pay for it, I promise, and have no affiliation with  Kelli/True Bias) but, what you came for was the details, right?  Well, those are all positive too.  It's just what one would want from an Indie sewing pattern, or any pattern for that matter.  I had absolutely no problems assembling the pdf and everything was perfectly drafted.  Each and every piece went together exactly as it should, making assembly faster and more fun.  The included instructions (I didn't reference the sew-along so, I can't comment on that) were thorough and well thought out.  You can tell that Kelli herself sews and carefully considered how best to assemble this dress.  The construction order makes perfect sense and I particularly liked her method for finishing the neckline binding/ turning the button band.  By the way, the button band is cut-on so, there are no tiny fabric strips to deal with.  As someone who can be very particular about her sewing, and typically takes several days or more to sew one dress, even I found this to be a fast sew.  My third version, to be posted later, actually took only about a day!  I'm fairly certain that's a record.

So, what changes did I make?  Only a few fitting adjustments:
  • I cut a size 4 bodice and waistband, grading at the hips to a 10 in front and 12 in back (this turned out to be 1 size too much). Clearly, I'm not the target body type but, I think it still works for me. For reference, I'm usually in the realm of 34"/28"/40".
  • No bust-adjustments this time as it's not a close-fitting dress and is drafted for a C cup, instead of the standard B (yay!)
  • I added 1/2" to the bodice (and later, another 1/2") Note: I'm 5'10" but, short-waisted so, half the time, I don't need to lengthen a bodice.  The drawstring definitely affects where the waist hits when worn so, keep that in mind.
  • I used 5 buttons, instead of 4, in part because I tend to think odd numbers look better and in part because the added length meant wider gaps, which I didn't like
  • I straightened the hip curve a bit.  Most of my current "junk" is on my bum, not my hips so, I end up with unflattering, empty seams.
  • For that "junk," I added 1/4" to the skirt center-back
  • I added an inch to the length of the skirt (on my third, I added 2 more)
My notes on this pattern were rather brief, which is a good sign. BUT, one thing I will add, if you're new to bias tape, particularly purchased, as I was, make a note to clip your curves! I don't think I've ever seen this mentioned in tutorials but, it makes a huge difference. I'm ashamed to admit, I didn't do it at first and turned to Instagram when my neckline wouldn't press completely flat.  It's second nature for me to clip curves when working with a lining so, of course, it's needed with binding too... oops!  Lucky for me, this Lisette cotton (from Jo-Ann a year or two ago) was very well behaved and was quite happy to be ripped and resewn. At least I don't expect to make that mistake again!

So, have you tried this pattern?  Or, do you have a favorite that works in the same way for you - quick to sew and effortless to wear?  I could always use more.  At little variety never hurt anyone!

(By the way, how do you feel about this format - all the photos at the beginning?  Is it easier to read that way? Or does the text get to boring without anything to break it up? And, are fitting notes helpful? What review details would you like to see?)

Book Review: Fabric for Fashion - The Swatch Book

Let me preface this review by clarifying the review is based on the 1st edition of the book and it was obtained via an interlibrary loan, not purchased, not provided by the publisher.

Woo, title page :P! I dare not step on copyright toes.

A few weeks ago, after a bit of bonding over our mutual love of silk, Amber (@soisewedthis) mentioned submitting an interlibrary loan request for the much admired, but somewhat pricey, Fabric for Fashion: The Swatch Book from Laurence King publishing.  Like her, I was eager to delve deeper into love and knowledge of my favorite luxury fabrics, wool, silk, so, I took her lead and submitted my own request.
Hint: I highly recommend utilizing this resource through your local library if available.  To increase your chances of success, do a search for your desired title(s) on WorldCat.org to see how many copies are available in libraries country or worldwide. If you see that an older edition is more readily available, as was the case here, submit your request for that isbn instead.
I've seen a lot of positivity surrounding this title and, while I don't entirely disagree, I thought it might be useful to have a review from someone coming at it from a slightly different angle.

I do not in any way have any kind of fashion or textile education or background (ok, one fashion history class in college :P).  Any fabric knowledge I have has been largely gained from internet research, sewing books, or asking questions at fabric stores.  Since moving to metro Atlanta, I've gained access to a few incredible fabric stores where I can find some unbelievably fine silks, wool, etc. but, they aren't often well labeled.  One in particular merely divides offerings by the largest content and lets you work it out yourself, in exchange for insanely good prices.  So, I've come home with some amazing things that I don't know the name of.  I had hopes that the book would be able to solve those riddles. It can't. This in not a book to help you pinpoint exactly what you have or help you distinguish between two similar fabrics. And due to a lack of continuity among fabric sellers, I wouldn't hold out too much hope for it being able to help you avoid every possible error when ordering online. However, that said, I would say this would be very helpful in the opposite direction. One could very easily thumb through the swatches included, say "I want that," then turn to your local fabric store, book in hand, Google, or preferred online seller using the new keyword.  I can easily see why this would be a popular book with budding designers, those with prior textile knowledge who just need a simple reference, or those with very limited fabric experience who need to learn the basics.

The book is roughly divided by fiber type (with some spilling over into more broad chapters) and each chapter, and the book itself, starts with general, appropriate technical knowledge, such as descriptions of twist and ply.  There are small diagrams and a few photos throughout, all very clear and add to the text given.  This edition includes 100 generously cut swatches, which allow you to easily see and feel many of the most common fabrics available.  The focus is primarily on natural fibers but, there are a few polyesters and nylon thrown in at very useful places (such as comparing them to their natural counterparts).  The text descriptions of each swatch are brief and sometimes confusing but, likely good enough for very general information.  There are excellent sections on weave types and satins.  The book also includes a trade fair list, a glossary, and the sources used for the swatches.

Sounds perfect so far, right?  I agree, it's a good book but, there are a few faults:
First, the section on knits is very limited, no ponte, no ITY, etc.  The focus is on jersey and even that section wasn't entirely clear.  Also, the terminology used to define each swatch may not be universal.  In some cases, such as with "muslin," it's a matter of geography - US sellers would generally use the term "gauze" instead, while "gauze" is something different in the book (but I can't hold that against them).  In other instances, I can only assume it's a matter of home-sewing vs. industry sewing.  The best example of this is the text description of "wool tweed" which plainly states that fancy bouclé yarns are used in the warp and weft and a swatch of such (from Linton Tweed!) is given.  However, to many home-sewists, this would be more accurately known as wool bouclé. If a beginner were to fall in love with the swatch included and then ordered wool tweed based on that, it's not unlikely that person would be disappointed.  For our market, wool bouclé may(?) be a type of wool tweed but,certainly not all wool tweed is bouclé.  Lastly, if, like me, you need help identifying a particular type of fabric or distinguishing one from another very similar, the descriptions aren't thorough enough for that (ex. between chiffon and georgette).  Not yet having read the companion book, The Complete Guide, I can't say whether or not this is expanded on there.  There may also be a chance my interest may be too technical and I may need to seek out a textile textbook. (Can anyone comment?)

For a more detailed review see my post on PatternReview, skipping the first three paragraphs.

Overall, I'd say this would be a great book to get your hands on but, whether or not it's by purchase would be up to you.  (I'm not yet sold on buying the book rather than $60+ worth of fabric but, I always weigh my hobby purchases against fabric :P.)  Though it didn't answer every question I had, and even added one or two new ones, I did enjoy the read and certainly may reference it in the time I have possession of it.  If my views change during that time, I'll certainly share an updated review.

Have you had a look at this book?  Any others you recommend?

Happy sewing! x

Finished: Jennifer Lauren Vintage Felicity Dress

Pattern Test Review*

You may have noticed it's been a while since my last post (over a year!).  Things, health, life, got in the way.  But, while I haven't been blogging, I have been creating!  In fact, it was necessary ;).  During my unplanned hiatus, I had the opportunity to be a pattern tester for Jennifer Lauren's new dress release, which has since been named Felicity.

I choose view 1 - a perfectly swishy 3/4-circle skirt

With the first glace at the line drawings, I knew this was going to be a great dress.  It's vintage inspired, of course, as all Jennifer's designs are but, it wasn't over the top.  The little details make it easy to put either a vintage or a modern spin on it.  The subtle shaping of the armscye in particular caught my attention.  It's slight, but it's clear this dress was made to be sleeveless, rather than a dress with removed sleeves.  Always a good sign for the drafting.  The pattern overall was very well done and Jen was great about receiving and responding to feedback so even the tiniest of issues were addressed before the official pattern was released.  Actually, testing for her was a breeze!  I should also note that, while Jen doesn't use symbols to assist with pdf assembly, this one is the easiest I've put together.

I changed the grainline of the pocket piece to allow for print matching.
I won't go into fit changes this time, because my pattern was a draft but, I can say the dress went together easily.  It sewed up perfectly in muslin and was relatively easy to fit (and there are now fitting posts on the JLV blog).  I do have to admit though, from there things did get a little tricky.  The lovely neckline gathers lend themselves better, particularly to someone like me with limited bias binding experience, to a thinner, lighter fabric.  But, as someone who doesn't want a lot of show-through, it had to be the right thin fabric.  First, I got a refresher in proper muslins - testing in a fabric similar to your fashion fabric - though we worked and achieved a near-perfect the fit in the muslin/calico, the fit in my first fabric was way off.  I'd chosen a medium weight rayon challis in an effort to balance the neckline/show-through issues but, as the fabric was so much less stable, the whole garment drooped and stretched.  The poor thing is still in my sewing room closet waiting to be corrected. After a few tweaks in throwaway fabric, I moved on to this beautiful Art Gallery voile from Fabric.com.  My thinking here was that the voile would be less droopy while still easy to gather at the neckline but, the higher quality and thread count of this line would keep things a bit more modest than a typical voile.  To help avoid disappointment, it tried the dress on a few times during construction. There are still a few things I'd like to tweak since the voile isn't a perfectly stable cotton and my weight has fluctuated since I finished it but, overall, I'm very pleased.

This was my first Art Gallery fabric purchase and I quickly understood the hype.  It was a dream to work with.  Though voile is notably less stable than other cottons, it cut and sewed much like normal.  Of course, I used a smaller needle and adjusted my tension for the thinness but, it went through both my regular machine and serger perfectly.  (A little hint: I'd recommend using a mesh tape zipper with the voile if you can find one.)  It's also wears beautifully!  It feels almost like a silk/cotton blend and is so light and airy, it feels almost scandalously minimal ::blush::, which is a godsend for summer here in Georgia (it was 93F when we took these photos!).  I can easily see this dress being in regular rotation through August... and I may just need a darker voile version for the early fall :)

 I highly recommend both this pattern and the Art Gallery voiles.  Now, time to catch up on the rest of my posts ;)

Happy sewing! x

*Full disclosure: I received a pre-release version of this pattern in exchange for my honest feedback.  No blog post was required and all opinions are my own.