McCall's M5391 - Classic Twill Shorts - Day 3

Today didn't get off to a confident start. Even with the number of diagrams, the instructions for placing the zipper still left me a little confused. Of course, the instructions don't seem to match the diagrams. So I ignored them! For Step 20, diagram D, it states to "place closed zipper (face up) under left extension." But in order to need to place the zipper under it, you will have needed to unnecessarily flip the garment over, which it did not say to do. It should have read "place closed zipper (face down) along pressed edge of left extension." Regardless, I went with the picture and my instincts and sorted it out.

Once past the zipper, it was smooth sailing. I've done enough darts now that these two took only a minute or so. Then, to stitch the inner leg seam, I used a French seam (because I don't yet own a serger). This means I laid the front onto the back, right sides out and sewed along the inner leg creating a 1/4" seam, pressed it, then flipped it inside out to sew a 3/8" seam. This results in the suggested 5/8" seam but keeps the frayed ends neatly tucked away.

For the center seam, because the zipper prevented me from using a French seam, I opted for a straight stitch. I reinforced this by trimming my seam allowance down to 1/4" and sewing an overcast stitch. I'm curious to test the integrity of this and can see this being a place for experimentation in the future.
Luckily, I was able to again use the French seam on the sides. To avoid unwanted bulk at the pocket, I trimmed 1/4" off the pocket seam allowance so it would only be caught during the second stitch of the French seam. This gave a much cleaner look.
Next, I'll tackle the waistband but now it's on to dinner! Happy Friday everyone! x

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