Finished: True Bias Southport in Patriotic Ikat Linen

Otherwise known as MORE secret PJs!

Funny... last week's garment was linen, blue, Ikat print, and not recent.  This week's garment is linen, blue, Ikat print, and also not recent.  (I swear, I'm still sewing. New things will be coming soon!)  I finished this one last September, right before a trip home and failed to get any photos of it.  And then the weather started to turn and I packed it away... blah blah.  Anyway, here we are.  It's unpacked and back in rotation, and, obviously, I couldn't not wear it for the 4th of July!  Subtle red, white, and blue attire for the win ;)

This Southport is actually the second of three made last year.  You may recall my gushing over the pattern when I posted my first one in October.  Obviously, I was still thrilled when making this linen version. I almost never repeat patterns and I started this one immediately after the chambray version.  Based on how that one wore though, I did make a few more changes:

  • I tapered to size 2 below bust on bodice and waistband (from size 4)
  • Reduced the waistband and skirt by 1 size, so graded to a size 8 in the front and a size 10 in the back (at hips)
  • I also should have added an additional 1/2" length to the bodice (for a total of 1" added), but I was in such a hurry I completely forgot on this one.
  • I also should have taken out a little at cb waist for a sway back adjustment.
  • This is roughly the pattern's drafted length.  I normally add 3" to dress hems, but I think this one is a suitable length, even on someone with longer legs.
One thing to note, if you're concerned about how flattering the drawn waistband will be, you might stick to thinner or softer fabrics.  I'm sure the fit difference is not noticeable in pictures, but because this linen has a fair amount of body, it doesn't cinch quite as well as the light chambray.  On the other hand, that extra body means nice air flow, so it's great for the hottest of days here.  It's really just a matter of preference.  It's a pretty flexible pattern :)

Sunglasses: RayBan  /  Dress: Handmade  /  Necklace:  Handmade  /  Flag:  Target  /  Sandals:  DV by Dolce Vita (old)
Photo location:  Barrington Hall, Roswell GA

Happy Sewing! x


  1. Replies
    1. Thanks, Rachel! I had it in my stash but rarely wear red, so this seemed the perfect opportunity to use it :) I love the extra pop of color when it's hanging.

  2. Jenny it turned out great, thanks for all the information. The red bias is such a fine detail. True Bias are new to me, I'll have to check out what other designs they have to offer :)

    1. Thanks, Renata! This is the only True Bias pattern I've tried, but if the others are as well written, they're definitely worth checking out! She just realized a cute cami and a shorts/crops pattern that look like great staples. Let me know if you try any out!

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  4. Oh, this is so cute! I just had to give away my Southport dress (it was a bit too short in the waist, and then it shrank a bit, even though I'd already prewashed the fabric, and became way too short). I think I'm due for another! I really like the fabric you chose- it's really pretty!

    1. Thanks, Sonja! Oh no, that's too bad! One of mine is starting to do the same, though I prewashed it too. So odd. Luckily, I had added length to that one, so I'm hoping to hold onto them for as long as possible. I'm sure the recipient of yours is thrilled though :)

  5. I can't believe all of the adjustments in sizes that you had to make - I mean you look slightly pear shaped, but a size 2 below the bust and a size 10 across the bum and hips? You must sew things that are really flattering to your body, because I would have never guessed that you need to make so many adjustments.

    I do love this dress though - it looks like the perfect "throw something on and run out the door" dress, and I need those kinds of dresses in my life.

  6. Aww, I do try to :) In "Big 4" patterns, it usually sounds a little less drastic, but I think True Bias patterns are just drafted for a very different shape than I am. And I think I look less pear-shaped than my measurements suggest because it's all in my bum 😂 But, I suppose I'm used to it by now because this honestly didn't feel like a lot of adjustment. Though, I'm thinking of moving to slopers to speed things up. Goodness knows I won't always have time to muslin every single pattern!

    Thanks! Oh my goodness, it is absolutely perfect for that! I make sure to always have at least one of the three clean at all times, so I can always get dressed in a hurry if needed.


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